Life is a song that we all must sing along

The air feels tense and it's an eery place here in Kampala. Presidential elections have taken over the country with their bountiful campaign posters, trucks filled with chanting supporters and blaring scratchy AP systems at all hours of the night, and much talk about whether it will be violent or peaceful. Voting started yesterday putting us expats on house arrest for the weekend and possibly longer. School has been closed for a week and hopefully we will return wednesday, possibly thursday. The announcements are made tomorrow so depending how the votes talley we may be urged to stay in the safety of our gated homes and barred windows. Riots, chaos and mob scenes can be common since people tend to get stupid and violent at this time.
There was one that actually broke out down the street from our house last week which Terri happened to witness. She came running into the house on the verge of tears and I knew something was serious. I hugged her trying to calm her and we were both trembling, but for different reasons - mine out of fear of what had just happened, and her out of fear of what she had just seen. Once her scare simmered, she gave me the details. I will retell them as I remember...She had taken a bodda home from downtown and for some reason, her senses told her to get dropped off at the bottom of our hill as she felt the bodda driver was not to be trusted. Just as she got off, a car came speeding down the road, the driver swerved to miss her, spun out of control spinning across the road and hitting a brick wall. The male passenger appeared to be dead as he limply hung out of the window. Right behind, a swarm of boddas came chasing the car accompanied by one police on bike as well. People from all over swarmed the car and began looting, while a group pulled the lady driver from the car, her head and arms bleeding, and starting savagely beating her. Terri's bodda driver ran to the car and stole the wallet from the unconcious passenger and pocketed it. Seeing this, she scolded him and informed the busy police officer that he had taken the wallet aka evidence to a level headed and civil witness. Suddenly, realizing that this was an uncontrolled and dangerous scene, her adrenaline hurried her home to safety.
I was stunned by the unravelling of events and the behaviors of these people. Indefinitely it is scary to know that we are surrounded by poverty, leading to jealousy, and ultimately resulting in an insignificant value for life. How this toxic behavior detriments the lives of others, without a selfless care that their grim behavior is reflective of their moral being was astonishing to me. It is truely unnerving and somewhat nauseating to perceive such merciless attitudes that people contrive from these situations. Regardless of our past, we are human beings and this malicious and savage behavior is not how we are intended to think or do. Why they were chasing this car is unknown but it was the mere fact that noone showed any sign of compassion for the human race that left me unsettled.

On a safer note, we have a day guard, Jude. He's a 20 year old diligent worker who has become part of the family. He's very inquisitive and loves to share his knowledge, which he does have from being the dependent of his 7 year old sister, working 6 days a week, 10 hour days, and attending night school. He does our yard work, cleans our house twice a week, washes our clothes and dishes and keeps us organized. I get a kick out of him because he really does care about us and his choice of words tend to make me laugh. For example, when I go on walks I tell him to come save me if I'm not back by dark. He replies telling me he will pray instead because he does not enjoy trouble. So we may have a timid guard weighing maybe 130lbs soaking wet, but at least he prays for our safety...

The technical problems in Uganda are always an unpredictable or inexplainable issue and our power goes out daily, ranging from 2 to 24 hours, but it has taught us to focus on the simple joys of life and to not overstock our freezer with meat. Even with the daily challenges (working for your water, settling for dirty cold water from a non pressurized shower head, avoiding the territory of our resident snake...), I wouldn't trade this experience for anything - I feel very content with where I am but remain anxious for the unknown paths ahead. I haven't been able to take as many pictures as I would like because being the only white person in a busy condensed market, it can feel a bit beyond that touristy feeling when whipping out a camera to take a picture of ones daily routine. I guess you just have to be here to know what I mean..

I had to leave early from school on tuesday because my malaria pills (mefloquine) got the best of me and I kinda lost my mind. I'm off them and never again will I go that route! I have been taking them once a week and have been experiencing extremely vivid dreams, relative to life and surroundings, some viciously frightening, others quite amusing and some just bizarre...So I struggled through the morning's tasks while being struck by waves of gut wrenching pains and then was forced to throw in the towel. I tried to shrug it off thinking it was just my body adapting to all the changes but these symptoms told me otherwise: extremely weak and naucious, fluctuating thermal temperatures, stomach pains, dizzy, blurred vision, light headed, arms were numb, sore neck and back, and completely emotional. All I could do was rest and drink lots of water. It took me a few days to regain my body and mind but it sure was a wicked trip!

The kitchen is coming along...in fact, I've actually been doing a lot of baking! Except it's not so glorious when baking for 220 people, rotating batches with 3 small baking pans, no measuring cups, and one oven with no temperature dial. It's kinda a fun game of never knowing if it will turn out...
Spent friday afternoon downtown in search of a few necessities like frying pans, a knife sharpener (they were using the cement steps outside which have dulled them completely and makes me cringe at the thought), and whatever else we could find. Trips downtown never seize to amaze me...So hectic, chaotic, and busy. Just mindblowing sights, sounds and smells. People carrying 10 bed mattresses on their head, or a dozen boxes of bottled sodas through the swarms of people walking every direction, dodging traffic going every direction!  They are so strong... Shopping of any kind is far from easy or convenience here...At home we are told to not text and drive whereas here it is dangerous to text and walk.

Believe me, it's quite contrary to what you may think is all bad news...Cost of living is cheap, weather is pleasing, and I'm surrounded by inspirational people...can't complain...

But always look forward to hearing from you at home...

K
xoxo

ps. If you want to read more about the elections click these links...

http://www.monitor.co.ug/
http://transcripts.cnn.com/TRANSCRIPTS/0103/09/i_ins.00.html

Dance yourself clean

I've only been here 2 weeks? That's it?! Looks like it's going to be some of the longest months yet...Traveling never seizes to fascinate me by how abundant and different your days become. The constant search for new experiences and greetings of new people has fulfilled my days and satisfied my eager mind.

Let me tell you about my first weeks of work...I'd rather not focus on the negative but inevitably there has been stress and frustration contending with the ways of the Ugandan ladies. Their pace and philosophy of food and cooking certainly does not match my own.  I have always taken my work seriously in respect to my training and experience I have acquired. The ways that food is capable of pleasing someone provides me with great satisfaction when I can be apart of this experience.  I have been challenged with the urge to pass this knowledge on to my co workers but Terri has tried to calm me by saying, "Kali, you can't build a city in a day." We've already had to fire Joanne for various reasons and hopefully we will be bringing in someone who is more eager work. We've had some rough days but have also had massive improvements and good laughs. I must go about my ways modestly since everyone can tell what I've made and they enjoy the changes. Eva has warmed up to the idea that I do know better and I am here to help, therefore she needs to trust me. And in return I share many recipes with her which she really loves. So with continuous and varying challenges everyday I try to remain positive and it is the "compliments to the chef" and empty plates that keeps my head up. A worker who is building our pantry told me one day, "if life didn't have it's challenges then we would not be strong people." Something I know and agree with - Africa truly does have it's exhausting and relentless daily obstacles so I guess I feel sorry for you suckers at home...

Facts based on the ways of the Ugandan ladies and their knowledge of food:
-Food does not need to be served hot regardless of what it is.
-The only reason to combine ingredients is for the color contrast
-There are no certain ways to achieve greater flavor in an ingredient.
-Everything must be cut in the palm of your hand (cutting boards? why bother?)
-There is no such thing as overcooking anything! (More mushy broccoli anyone?)
-Time is only a guide line. There is no time in Africa.
-Oranges are actually green and very sour. This is actually true. We serve fresh fruit everyday but the teachers had mentioned that too often they had been serving pineapple and would like to see a change. So I said lets change it up daily and tomorrow we serve oranges. Without informing me of their nature in Africa, they bought oranges which looked like limes. I cut one open, tried it, and realized we would have to coat them in sugar to get the kids to eat them. hmmm I miss oranges....
-Apples are very expensive
Thankfully they know how to wash dishes and leave a clean kitchen.




My facts and knowledge on Ugandan food:
-It is very common to bite down on sand or dirt
-It is not uncommon to find ants in your food as Kampala is built on an ant hill.
-I have hardly eaten out because Ugandan food is very bland and I do not completely enjoy matoke
-Eggs are not refrigerated so fetus' are common, turning me completely off of eggs.
-The meat is very wild tasting which I do not like so I very rarely eat any.
-The milk is very strong so I do not drink it, not like I've ever drank milk anyways.
-I bought a massive wheel of gouda cheese for 6$...It tastes nothing like gouda but is at least palateable

In contrary to my ability to enhance an ingredients profile or strategically build flavor using technique and procedures, I can also fully appreciate the utter simplicity of a boiled potato. The simple life - my experience this past weekend. Two of my friends, Chris (from Brazil) and Nathaneol (from Indiana) and I joined a friend of ours, Joseph (the school driver), as he invited us to come visit his family in his village. We left Saturday morning at 7am and arrived by Matatu as it dropped us off on the side of the highway in which was literally the middle of nowhere. We walked miles down a long path and the sun scorched our pale, sensitive skin. sun screen? nope, can't remember everything when you pack last minute! We strolled into the village and a group of school kids greeted us with a welcoming song. It made me happy to see how well known and valuable Joseph was in his village while back in Kampala, at school, he was just the under appreciated bus driver. In his village he was one of the wealthier families and the pastor for the church. Once we arrived at his home, we met his family and relatives who all lived on the same lot. There were a total of 6 clay huts with straw roofs - a toilet, a "kitchen"  (all the cooking is done outside but in this hut they boiled water and kept pots and coals), a storage (for nothing really..maybe some cotton that his dad cultivated and sold), one for his mom, dad and nieces, one for his nephew and sister and one for him, his wife and three kids. The huts were only big enough to fit a few beds. I slept with the two nieces on their bed with grandma and grandpa a few feet away. The roles are all very distinctive. The ladies cook, deliver our food, wash our hands in a basin, clear our dishes, wash the dishes, then begin cooking for the next meal. Shame on me for complaining about my cooking conditions in a kitchen with a gas stove, running water and utensils. Once we had lunch, Joseph showed us the school and the church they had begun to build Dec 29th. Each brick is hand made and the funds are lacking so I give him props for being so passionate about this large project. We wanted to help with the daily chores which included fetching water from the well and fire wood from the woods of course! I attempted to carry what was one of the smaller jugs of water on my head just as the ladies do (except with jugs twice the size of mine) but by the time we got back to our lot I was completely exhausted, and half the water had splashed out pouring down my face, shirt and pants. Deservingly, everyone laughed at me. I was just happy to feel refreshed and somewhat cleaner. I am always thoroughly impressed to see anyone carrying anything on their head - it isn't as easy as they make it look! The other day I saw a young boy carrying about 10 flats of eggs (so about 240 eggs) through the busy downtown streets. Wow!  Next was the fire wood hunt. The aunt and kids took us far out into the depths of the woods telling us that on this hunt we would see baboons. We didn't see any baboons and instead ended up looking like a pack of them. We crouched and pushed through the deep woods, crawling on our bellies at times, leaving bundles of wood tide with vines to mark our path. We emerged from the woods covered in sticks, dirt, leaves and sweat and were once again laughed at by a crowd of villagers standing around a water well. With pride, the three of us carried our bundles of wood on our heads back to our home. I will post pictures of Josephs home, the family, some chapati making, our church experience and more. We were so well taken care of and our visit was so gratefully appreciated. The ladies laughed and talked almost constantly. I wondered what they were always talking about considering they live the same routine every day and have very little worry or stimulation compared to the city life. I figured it was probably about us mzungus. Sunday I was fortunate enough to attend the village church and partake in the service. In fact, Chris, Nathaneol and I all sat at the front, on a couch facing the crowd because we were such appreciated visitors. They even asked me to stand up and say a few words. No I didn't preach any Nietzsche to these Christians, I gratefully thanked them for being so kind and humbly inpacting my life. I recorded a long video I hope to share someday. Entirely, it was a really special experience very few will ever have.

Another busy week passed and no day is ever the same. My internal alarm or loud birds wake me every morning around 7, I walk about 15 mins to school, noticing along the street which family is providing the day's best avocados, tomatoes, cucumbers, jack fruit, mangoes, pineapples, which will most likely be dinner, and I am at school by 8. I usually make it home by 6 and cannot believe how fast a day goes. I have been coaching the under 11 girls soccer team twice a week with games saturday mornings. Tomorrow is our first and I am nervous because it is without a doubt going to be a savage beating. This is the first year for athletics at the school so there isn't much interest, meaning we take what we get and hope we have enough players so we don't have to forfeit. I am just happy to use my coaching skills again and play some futball! Friday's, I coach the kindergartens which usually ends in the girls wandering off while the boys run aimlessly around the field. It's impossible not to love the kids here - they are too cute! While walking down the street they will run up and quickly touch you, laugh hysterically and run off with pride.  I've wandered into some really poor areas off the beaten road and seen some sad sights but the kids are always keen to smile, say hello and wave. In fact everyone here is so friendly they will ask you how you are doing before saying hello. The proper response is fine. Just passing someone on the street I've had people, out of habit, say fine without even making eye contact or any exchange of words.

I've also picked up another role in the community as a volunteer at a refugee home. I'm teaching cooking/english classes to about 25 students from all over northern Africa. They all come from horrific backgrounds and I feel it is the least I can do to give them hope in society. Today I made pita bread, guacamole and Salsa. They loved it! Believe it or not, they had never heard of these things. Again, reminds you that they come from very sad and deprived lives. I recently learned that I won't be making a wage at the school and therefore I am living off my travel funds. (Mom's jaw drops now!) Yes, I have been underpaid at every job I've attained and it is difficult not to be discouraged after I was told I would be receiving checks so I will have a discussion with the principle. He is after all, pleased with my dedicated hard work. This Canadian needs to eat too! If you're curious what the wages are like, my dishwasher makes 100$/month and my two others make 250$/month. The teachers make 400$. And to all my fellow D'youvies, french teachers are hot on the market in International Ugandan schools. I know you all have big hearts but it's fair to say this lifestyle isn't for everyone. Even I feel out of place sometimes when the worst word in the language, according to my associates, is crap! I enjoy the shock factor when I share some of my stories...

Dear Jayme, I am feeding the stray dogs any leftovers or spoiling food from the kitchen and know where the sick and helpless ones reside. Of course they are of the same breed as the ones in SE Asia! Tainted...

Dear Christly, you would be worshipped if you came here because of your name. Laugh it up, you'll never live it down...

Dear Lex, I wish you were in my cooking class. But it doesn't even compare to my cooking show in Pen. Still missing that one component...you know...before I say "and cook!"

Dear Pat, I have been asked to play guitar for Friday's Mass at the school. About 7 songs, alone. Where are you when I need you?

Dear Grandmaman, yesterday was a special day - you were prominent in my heart. I met a Ugandan guy who could relate so I hugged him and he cried hard. It made me realize that my role here is greater than I have yet discovered.

Dear Mom, send me ketchup! But FYI, packages take at least 2 months to receive. Also, I was reminded how I have you to thank for my name - the ever existing topic of conversation. In swahili it means tough and dangerous. So no need to worry about me...



Coba!
xoxox

K

ps  I posted some new pictures

New Pictures

I just spent too long uploading pictures so hopefully the school computers pick up the pace. I was unsuccessful in uploading a video I made this morning but will have continous efforts varying on patience.

What a lovely Sunday afternoon...the sun is hot as I sit here on the patio and enjoy my first African beer since arriving - the Nile Special. Good ol 500ml bottle of 5.6% for only a dollar.

It was a busy weekend with birthdays, dinner parties and long walks. I explored one day by myself and got lost as I walked the unfamiliar red dirt roads. We are living in Kansanga, a neighborhood with gated properties, watch dogs and servants/guards/house help, while your neighbor might be a family living in the dirt with corrugated metal, boxes and old wood pieces as their home, no bigger than a small bathroom. The kids play in swampy gutters, half clothed and filthy while the mom trims matoke to feed the empty bellies. Today I witnessed a young girl carrying her little brother who was missing all the skin on his legs.  She left him on the corner of a busy downtown street and went begging as he sat there helplessly. My stomach flipped knowing it won't be the last time I see such a thing as it is very common to see orphans and mangled bodies begging for help. It has been known that kids will actually mutilate themselves in order to receive greater donations.  I feel like royalty.

This morning was the first time I've gone to church in...oh I dunno....a decade? The church is called Watoto and I notice it is actually on my map below. I didn't plan on going but wanted to make the early morning trip with Terri downtown to check out the scene. Once there I felt quite unsafe to walk the hectic streets alone and decided that hey, this is going to be a great experience that I don't want to miss out on. I was really looking forward to the music and it sure didn't disappoint. It began with a full band and choir of actually really catchy music that everyone danced and sang to. The vibe was so powerful that even I was clapping and dancing. We sat second row on the balcony of a church aka theatre that fit at least over 300-400 people.The minister asked everyone to stand who was there for the first time and I looked around to notice terri and I were the only Mzungus/white people. She has been going every Sunday so I was to stand alone in sight of hundreds of Ugandans and they welcomed and prayed for me. It was really special and I felt a little embaressed but also very comforted by the good spirits. I explained to Terri after the service that it's hard to understand why people think Africans are so dangerous when pretty much all of them attend church and believe so strongly of a greater power that protects and cares for them. A line I recall from the preacher was, "People do not care what you know until they know how much you care". The people have so much faith because of their conditions. At one point we were all asked to hold someone beside you and pray. Terri prayed for me and Uganda and the people and tears began streaming my face uncontrollably. It wasn't the last time we cried during the ceremony. I didn't realize religion had such an impact on my being and I am very grateful for the experience.

I also had my first boda ride today. There are two forms of taxis (legally), bodas (motorcycles) and matatus (jam packed mini buses). After a bit of downtown shopping we hopped on a boda and road home. I almost bounced off the back since there were three of us plus a shopping bag on a motorcycle maneuvering through nonsense traffic, pot holes and uneven roads. Definitely worth the dollar. The Ugandans have a joke that goes "You always know a drunk driver, because he drives straight." mhmmm so true...think about it....

Work starts tomorrow and I am very excited to make some seriously needed improvements in the kitchen. We will also be moving out of our palace tomorrow so it should be an eventful week as there will be many changes.

I found a little soccer player just up the road who sells avocadoes for 30 cents and they are about the length of my forearm. Oh ya...gotta love the cheap produce. Avocadoes and tomatoes have already become my staple meal.

Looking forward to what comes next....

Just call me Rosa...

And so it began...

After a trek to the vancouver airport with my mom, we enjoyed what was a very appropriate final meal in Canada - Tim hortons. Not one of my favorite places, although always a loyal option, I thoroughly enjoyed a large coffee and breakfast sandwich with bacon. We laughed as she encouraged me to take a package of ketchup in case I need to make soup upon arrival in Africa. I have not yet regretted the decision to leave it...We had our goodbye at the customs entrance and as I walked away I was struck by one of the most glorious feelings, a feeling I wish upon everyone. It came from my entire body, mainly my heart, and I thank a friend of mine for the technical term...a joy bubble! I felt that this joy bubble elevated me from the ground and assured me that I was on the right path and  about to begin a very new and exciting journey. I turned around to see my mom and share the moment and couldn't help but give her the biggest smile I can imagine.

My first culture shock struck me in the Heathrow airport. After checking my boarding passes, I walked outside to join a bus that would take me across the tarmac to my plane. As I entered the bus doors I instantly noticed that I was the only white person. I had a quick string of thoughts that had me realize this would become the norm and I had to be brave. So I walked down the aisle, noticing the abundance of lovely dark chocolate faces and sat in the backseat. I smiled thinking of Rosa Parks.

After two very long days of airports and flights I arrived at the Entebbe airport. Greeted by my friend Terry and a few of her friends I trembled with excitement and almost broke into tears.

This morning I woke feeling rather delirious and confused. Mainly because I had no concept of time, I predict I've only slept what feels like 6 hours in the past 3 days, and oh ya, I'm in Africa! The rooster crows got me out of bed but also the anticipation of what the day would hold had me anxious and willing to fight the burn in my eyes.

I am fortunate to be house sitting with 3 other people in what I consider a palace. I hope Aladdin is kicking it around here somewhere...I had a hot shower, ate a 2 bite banana and made my way to school. Which is just around the corner. Upon arrival, I was greeted by too many teachers to remember any names and shown around the campus, which is absolutely beautiful! I met my kitchen staff, in time to see them deep frying todays lunch - burgers. I will be implementing many more vegetables, fruits, sanitation requirements, portion quantities, techniques and menu planning. This is only by observation. I start work Monday and the entire school staff is very welcoming and excited to have me.

My brain is working at about 50% so many apologies for a lack of words but I also need to get down to the kitchen for lunch service today. Gotta run but look forward to sharing pictures and stories very soon. The school has decent internet connection.

Until next time...reminding you all that I am in a very good place.

Flight booked!!!

So this just became very real...and not at all surprised that it all came together last minute. FIVE days until I depart from the Vancouver airport arriving 2 days later in Entebbe, Uganda - only 30 miles from Kampala, the capital city. Once I am welcomed into my new home by various roommates I sense my arrival will be short celebrated before I start work at the school the following day. But it's Africa, so who am I to predict anything that happens once I debark the plane. From what I understand, my job entails feeding 220 students and teachers daily, training staff and elevating the schools food service system. With many more surprise tasks I'm sure. The school is called Heritage International School of Kampala and from what I've seen it's beautiful. But once there and settled I will post my own pictures which will most likely be updated on facebook or flickr. I will also have access to skype (account username: kali.mackell) for anyone wanting to connect between the 11 hour difference.

So here's hoping Vancouver doesn't get snowed out in the next few days and my next post will be made from the foreign influences of Africa...

Travel tip #1: Any travel you pursue requires much planning, patience and money. But with some optimism it pays for itself and every ounce of energy put forth into preparation becomes evidently invaluable.

Finding Inspiration

As a renown chef, writer and traveler seeking modest truth and reason, Anthony Bourdain continues to inspire my existential interests...

"Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life - and travel - leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks - on your body or on your heart - are beautiful. Often, though, they hurt."
-Anthony Bourdain